Відео

great review, I am in HO, Thank you, useful views, I agree with most of them. enjoy your presentation

I don't have Space, TIme, or Money at present for a layout so what I do is I live vcariously via youtube videos of layouts and I make note of things I see that I would want in a future layout so that if my time, space and money changes and I end up with the ability to do a layout a lot of the planning stage is already complete. For now I have too many other expensive hobbies using my money and a wife and son using my space and time. None of which I am willing to get rid of because the expensive hobbies are ones I share with my wife (and sometimes with my 6 year old son) and I won't be getting rid of the wife or the son ever because I made commitments to them that last my entire life (or well in the case of the son as long as he wants/needs to live at home) My idea is since our house has a 2 bedroom basement suite in it currently occupied by my MIL that in future when she is not in the picture anymore (not that I want this to happen shortly) and my son is old enough to live on his own if he wants to move in and take over that suite pending we don't have need to use it for rental income I would gladly let him move into the basement which would then free up the entire space that is currently his bedroom for another use giving me perhaps a space for a layout in what is now his bedroom One of said expensive hobbies is Wargaming Miniatures so most of the painting and hobby tools I already have haha

I just had shoulder surgery and about a month before while prepping for it , I found this channel. I have fallen in love again with model railroading again after a 25+ year hiatus. This has been a boon of information and tips (as well as a sanity anchor). I’m so looking forward to working as hard and as fast thru PT , which will suck, yet worth the pain, to get back to my modeling endeavors. 😮 Took 15 minutes to type this left handed!😅 That’s a lot of backspacing and autocorrect/spell checking. Whew! “ Im pretty tired now. Think I’ll go home”😂

Nice work. I'm not a railroader. I do find your videos calming like Bob Ross almost. And I always appreciate craftsmanship. Keep up the great work 👍

Truth. Now that homedepot and lowes chased away all local lumber yards they can sell absolute garbage. I just built a word bench for rc planes and I had to find a lumber yard with flat 3/4 ply. I couldn't find 11 ply. I still spent $120 a sheet for 9 ply. At least it was flat.

Your switch machines have N.O and N.C. contacts, no need for the double pole double throw toggles.

Are you N scale? If so where did you get your street lights??

Lots of good tips. Well done. Radius. I'd recommend minimum 24" radius. For an 8x4' layout: 21" and 24". So many large carriages and engines have minimum 22"/24". At least you'll have one track you can use them on. Width between tracks. Used to be the 2" rule. No longer. Allow 3". Do a test with your longest engine/carriage on your smallest radius + next up radius beside it. Can hold a pencil to the centre of a carriage to mark the overhang. The metal Tracksetters look good. Not available in all the radii I want and strange spacings between some of them. Home made solid quarter pies and/or solid semi circles can be used. Lay down and push your track against them. Allow for the difference between 'centre' radius and inside curve radius. Track fixing. Best one I've seen is to use Use a nails/screw on the OUTSIDE on BOTH ends of a track sleeper (instead of one centered on the inside). A great way to control those curved joins. Others use a 'sticky' glue which allows for easy relaying. Track joins. Try staggering them. Ie the outside rail join might be 2" or 3" before the inside join. Power. DC is coming back with Bluetooth and/or eg LocoFi. I've heavily invested in DCC. Starting out again, I'd look to DC track power and wireless engine control. (Remote or phone software. No common / universal available yet.) I do have some of them anyway! So my layout has DC tracks and DCC tracks (which NEVER meet!) Wiring. Reels of household gauge wire are usually the cheapest to buy. Next cheapest is 'speaker' wire (thick and thin) for accessories and/or droppers / feeders. Sticking to popular household gauges keeps costs down. Copper best. If you can, keep bus runs to 15' or use a thicker gauge for longer. This keeps current loss to small amount (5% from memory). Wiring. Consider sections or blocking. Even if you don't use them straight away, it will be much easier that trying to do it later. Each block must have its own red bus line. The black bus line can be common to two or more blocks / sections. have then go to the front of your layout where your power controls are. Simply gang wire (eg using a Wago connector) until you need them separate. Also useful for trouble shooting by only powering parts of a track when looking for a short, etc. Consider solderless options like 'case' connectors. Paint. Look for discounted 'wrong tint' cans. Sometimes 500ml 'tester' cans are cheaper than the real thing. Last but not least, the NRMA has lots of suggested 'standards' / measurements depending upon scale and radius! I find some of them a bit too 'generous' and take up too much space. But if you have the space . . .

Just FYI. Im am doing this today. I did a sample. I made plaster loose enough to pour. (same exact plaster you are using) it worked great also. So I guess the consistency of the plaster is not that critical. Nice job. Im making an N scale layouy also. Wish I had the space you have. Mine is on a 4x8 board.

Very nicely done.

It is not aitch/o scale its aitch/zero scale, which means half zero.

Good video, but you passed over track height without giving any ideas on what height you would use.

so what engine is that a es44 dc, or a es 44ac, or a et44ac, pretty ambiguous name if you ask me, a tier 4 gevo tells you nothing, are dcc engines not capable of slow speed, like dc engines that can crawl a tie space as slow as 1 minute per tie width

love the cn colors, for the money they charge for those engines the classification lights should work with all the colors as well as give you a micro trains coupler, nice review

if those procor wheels would turn you might pull some more take an athearn car out of the box and roll it what ever those procor car were rolled like junk

Practice makes it perfect

I spent last 2 years laying track. After all my hard work I no longer can get anything as simple as rail joiners. Forget if you need a medium radius Peco N scale turn out sl 395. None available. I'm about to trash it all. Nothing is avaliable anymore. Even online Anybody looking to get into this hobby be prepared to wait months for things you need.

Im watching this video well after it came out, wondering what kind of track you used for this layout? looks amazing how it is today!

Thank you for the tips I got my sin an ho scale train set an would like to build a cool layout

Man I came back to watch your video after just finishing mine. I thought I was missing a page of directions or something. I have like 2 sprues full of stuff for little buildings and junk that I have no direction for that I was hoping to see someone else build. I had to re-read the directions closely to see they wanted you to glue all the long walls together first before assembling the building. I didn’t need a support column in mine when I put it together.

I run 22 and 18 in ho and don't have a problem.

I like that there are lemon locos out there even if serviced some may still have issues .😮

What do you mean by “silky bath?”

This looks amazing. I can't believe that it was only a week. Great job and great video.

Отлично получилось! Красиво

According to their manual CV123 will change startup volume.

put the loco on a stationary test track and run it at speed to break in the motor.. I've done it and it works.. also make sure the electric contacts are clean and make firm contact on the pickups..

To me, sound is more of a option. I prefer silent, but most non-DC locomotives come from the factory with sound. Sure it'll be nice to listen to an OLD EMD or ALCO crank up...but I live track-side IRL....I hear trains day in and day out, I would be happy if sound WASN'T available from the factory. Edit: If I may ad a 21st tip: geographical setting always help. Structures, railroads, and even terrain can change based on geology. I have an example I'm planning now. I want to have a layout that's set in either Illinois, or Indiana, that focuses on "intra-midwest" trains. I have set my self a few towns of note for terminals in this setting: Lima(lime-ah), Ohio, and Effingham, Illinois. Main commodity will be grain(either in boxcars, or early 2 & 3 bay hoppers), oil, coal, Trailer On Flat Car(TOFC), cattle, and general merchandise. (Note: I didn't mention automobiles) Other notes: *Power is mostly ALCo at this time *Average car length is 42ft(most USRA era, cars are leaving service) *Railroad of choice(given the two towns listed) is Nickle Plate Road *Layout is planned to have 1 natural disaster path, approximately 100 scale yards wide(F-1 tornado, and yes, for my fellow weather geeks, that's the correct scale for the era) *possible interchanges with Baltimore and Ohio(B&O, Norfolk and Western(N&W), Pennsylvania Railroad(PRR), New York Central(NYC), Erie Lackawanna(EW), Chicago Northwestern(CNW), Union Pacific(UP), Rock Island(RI), Missouri Pacific(MP), and Santa Fe(ATSF)(some of those interchanges(PRR, NYC, B&O, N&W) happen in Lima, ohio)

So very thankful for this video. You did an excellent job explaining everything , if it wasn't for this video , I would be lost!

I would just velcro the speaker to the bottom of the layout. The wire works like you have it as well. Velcro is nice because it's a good firm grip and isn't permanent. That kit was a good deal.